

Instead, opt for a cope joint, also known as a “back beveled” joint. Most corners in a room will be inside corners, and while you might be tempted to create another miter joint for them, mitered joints in inside corners tend to gap. While the nails hold the molding in place, the glue acts as extra insurance to keep the corners snug. Before nailing the molding in place, put a small dab of construction glue on each end. Mitering corners means to cut the ends of the two pieces of baseboard at 45-degree angles that meet to form a corner. Don’t worry about hitting wall studs, shoe molding attaches only to the baseboard. Catch the baseboard with nails be careful not to insert the nails into the gap beneath the baseboard or the molding will not be securely attached. Insert one finish nail approximately every 12 inches along the baseboard.The flexibility of the molding makes it easy to do this.

Press shoe molding firmly against the floor and against the baseboard as you nail it in place.This makes it simpler to cut the coping joints you’ll need for the inside corners. Start in a corner and work your way around the room in one direction.Because shoe molding is small and easy to damage, this is one case where a finish nailer or pinner is preferable to a hammer and nails. These include a miter saw to cut the shoe molding, a coping saw to create inside corners, and a finish nailer (or pinner) to attach the molding.
#ONE DIRECTION HISTORY WALL PROFESSIONAL#
The following tips will help you achieve a professional look. Installing shoe molding is a fairly straightforward do-it-yourself project, but you will need to create a “coping joint” (discussed below).
#ONE DIRECTION HISTORY WALL INSTALL#
Photo: Install shoe molding along the edge of your baseboards with these tips. Polystyrene is not as durable, however, as either MDF or wood, and it tends to dent if bumped. Polystyrene shoe molding is the least expensive option, running $2 to $3 per eight-foot section, and it’s meant to be painted.MDF is even more flexible than wood, so it’s a good choice if you have a lot of uneven gaps under your baseboard, but while suitable for painting, it doesn’t stain well. Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) shoe molding is made from a combination of resin and sawdust, and it is similar in price to pine, at $5 to $6 per eight-foot section.Hardwood shoe molding, including oak, ash, and walnut, which can be stained to match your trim, runs $6 to $10 per eight-foot section. Wood is the most common type of shoe molding, and you can buy inexpensive (paintable) pine shoe molding for $5 to $6 per eight-foot section.It’s also made in a variety of material options to match the different types of baseboard. Standard shoe molding, available at home improvement centers and lumberyards, comes in widths of 7/16-inch to ½-inch and ranges from ¾-inch to 1-inch in height. Photo: via Kari Shea Shoe molding is available in wood, MDF, and polystyrene to match your baseboards. RELATED: 9 Ways to Dress Up a Room with Molding Its small size makes it slightly flexible, allowing it to be installed flat against the floor to give baseboard a professional finished look. Even after baseboard has been installed, you will often see small gaps here and there between the baseboard and the floor. Baseboard alone covers most of the gap, but because it’s larger than shoe molding, it’s relatively stiff and doesn’t conform well to an uneven floor. Today, the main goal of both baseboard and shoe molding is to conceal the less-than-appealing transition between the bottom of the wall and the floor.

Shoe molding, so called because it’s located at “shoe level,” caught on because it looked good and also helped seal out insects and dirt. That’s when mass production of wood trim made the molding readily available. Tall baseboards were popular during the Greek Revival period in the early-to-mid 1800s, but the idea of adding shoe molding to baseboards began in Europe and the United States during the Victorian era of the late 1800s. Photo: Shoe molding offers a fine finish to baseboards and covers the seam where it meets the floor.
